How to Choose the Right HDMI Switch

So you’ve got a single TV, projector, or monitor — and more HDMI devices than HDMI ports to plug them into. Maybe you have an Apple TV, a gaming console, a cable box, and a laptop, and you’re tired of swapping cables every time you want to switch between them. An HDMI Switch is exactly what you need. It takes multiple HDMI inputs and lets you send any one of them to a single display at the press of a button, with an IR remote, or automatically when a source powers on.

Choosing the right HDMI Switch depends on four things: how many source devices you have, the resolution you want to support, whether you need a separate audio output for a soundbar or headphones, and (very briefly) whether you really do have just one display. The most common mistake is buying a Switch that supports your highest-resolution device on paper, but missing the smaller details like audio extraction or HDMI 2.1 support for 4K120 / 8K60 gaming.

This guide will help you choose the right OREI HDMI Switch based on your setup.

Before You Choose an HDMI Switch

Before selecting a product, check four things:

• How many source devices do you want to connect?
• Are you sending the output to one display, or multiple displays?
• What is the highest resolution your sources and display need to support?
• Do you need a separate audio output for a soundbar, receiver, headphones, or speaker system?

These four details will determine which product is compatible with your setup.

Step 1: Count Your Source Devices

Count every HDMI source you want connected to the Switch at the same time. Common sources include:

• Apple TV, Fire Stick, Roku, Chromecast
• Cable or satellite box
• Blu-ray or DVD player
• Game console (PS5, Xbox, Nintendo Switch)
• Computer or laptop
• Camera or capture device

OREI HDMI Switches come in the following input counts:

• 2 inputs (2x1)
• 3 inputs (3x1)
• 4 inputs (4x1)
• 5 inputs (5x1)
• More than 5 inputs — typically achieved by chaining multiple Switches together

If you are not sure whether to round up or down, round up. It is usually better to have one extra empty input for a future device than to run out of inputs in six months.

Step 2: Confirm You Only Need One Display

An HDMI Switch sends one of its inputs to one output. If you want to send your sources to two or more displays at the same time, or to switch each display independently, you do not need a Switch — you need a Matrix Switcher.

A quick way to decide:

• One TV / projector / monitor → HDMI Switch (this guide)
• Two or more TVs / projectors / monitors → HDMI Matrix Switcher (see our “How to Choose the Right HDMI Matrix Switcher” guide)

If you stay in this guide, the assumption from here on is that you have exactly one display.

Step 3: Identify the Required Resolution

The Switch needs to support the highest resolution and refresh rate your source devices output and your display can show. If the Switch caps out below that, your display will fall back to a lower resolution.

OREI HDMI Switches are organized into three resolution tiers:

1080p

Full HD. Suitable for older sources and displays, basic cable / satellite, and casual streaming.

4K60

4K resolution at 60Hz. Suitable for most modern streaming devices (Apple TV 4K, Fire TV 4K, Roku Ultra), 4K Blu-ray players, last-generation consoles, and the majority of current 4K TVs.

8K60 or 4K120

HDMI 2.1 bandwidth. Required for PS5 and Xbox Series X gaming at 4K 120Hz, 8K sources, VRR, ALLM, and high-end gaming monitors.

Pick the tier that matches your most demanding device. A 4K60 Switch will work with a 1080p TV, but it will cap a PS5 to 4K60 instead of 4K120.

Step 4: Decide If You Need Separate Audio Output

This is where most setup mistakes happen.

A Switch with a separate audio output (sometimes called an “Audio Extractor Switch”) gives you a dedicated Optical, Coaxial, RCA, or 3.5mm port that strips the audio from the active HDMI input and routes it to a soundbar, receiver, headphones, or speaker system independently of the TV.

You probably need a Switch with separate audio output if:

• Your TV does not support HDMI ARC / eARC, and you want sound from a non-HDMI audio device
• Your soundbar, receiver, or speaker system only has Optical, Coaxial, RCA, or 3.5mm input
• You want a wired headphone tap right next to your seating position
• You want the Switch to handle audio routing instead of relying on the TV

You probably do not need separate audio output if:

• Your TV has ARC / eARC and your soundbar or receiver supports ARC / eARC (the TV handles audio routing itself)
• Your sound system is an HDMI device that connects to the TV’s ARC / eARC port
• You are happy using the TV speakers

If you also need to convert TV audio to an older audio device (Optical, Coaxial, RCA, or 3.5mm), see our “How to Choose the Right Audio Extractor or Converter” guide.

Important Notes Before Buying

A Switch Is Not a Splitter

A Switch sends one of multiple inputs to a single display. A Splitter sends one input to multiple displays. They are opposite tools. If you want one source on multiple displays, you need a Splitter, not a Switch.

A Switch Is Not a Matrix

A Switch sends one input to one display at a time. A Matrix Switcher sends multiple inputs to multiple displays, independently and at the same time. If you have more than one display, use the Matrix guide.

The Whole Chain Has to Match the Resolution

If you have an 8K source, a 4K60 Switch, and an 8K TV, your effective resolution is 4K60 — the weakest link sets the ceiling. The Switch, the HDMI cables, the source, and the display all have to support the resolution and refresh rate you are targeting.

Audio Extraction Has Format Limits

Optical, Coaxial, RCA, and 3.5mm outputs are bandwidth-limited compared to HDMI. They typically do not pass full Dolby Atmos, DTS:X, or other object-based formats. If you need full lossless surround sound, route audio through HDMI ARC / eARC instead, and use the Switch only for video routing.

Recommended Setups

Scenario 1: You Have 2 Source Devices

Setup:

• 2 HDMI source devices
• 1 display

Recommended product:

• With separate audio output (any resolution): BK-21A
• No separate audio output, 1080p or 8K60 / 4K120: BK-21
• No separate audio output, 4K60: UHDS-212

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Why this works:

A 2x1 Switch is the simplest and most affordable way to merge two HDMI sources into a single display. The BK-21A adds an audio extraction port so you can route audio independently to a soundbar or headphones. The UHDS-212 is purpose-built for 4K60 video-only setups.

Important note:

Make sure the HDMI cables you use are rated for the resolution you are targeting. A High Speed cable is fine for 1080p, but 4K60 and especially 8K60 / 4K120 need Premium High Speed or Ultra High Speed cables.

Scenario 2: You Have 3 Source Devices

Setup:

• 3 HDMI source devices
• 1 display

Recommended product:

• No separate audio output (any resolution): BK-301 or BK-301P
• With separate audio output (1080p or 4K60): A dedicated 3x1 Switch with audio extraction is not in the current lineup. Use a 4x1 Switch with audio extraction — UHDS-401A-O, UHD-401, BK-401A, BK-401ARC, or BK-41A — which gives you the audio output plus a spare extra input.
• With separate audio output (8K60 / 4K120): Use BK-401A, BK-401ARC, or BK-41A — all 4x1 HDMI 2.1 Switches with audio extraction.

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Why this works:

The BK-301 / BK-301P covers all resolutions for a basic 3-input setup without audio extraction. For setups that need separate audio, stepping up to a 4-input model is the cleanest path — you get the audio extraction and headroom for a future fourth device, usually for very little extra cost.

Important note:

If you go the 4x1 route, just leave one input unused. There is no performance penalty for an empty input.

Scenario 3: You Have 4 Source Devices

Setup:

• 4 HDMI source devices
• 1 display

Recommended product:

• With separate audio output, 1080p or 4K60: UHDS-401A-O or UHD-401
• No separate audio output, 1080p or 4K60: UHD-401
• With separate audio output, 8K60 / 4K120: BK-401A, BK-401ARC, or BK-41A
• No separate audio output, 8K60 / 4K120: BK-401, BK-401C, or BK-401S

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Why this works:

A 4x1 Switch is the workhorse configuration for a typical home theater — enough inputs for a streaming device, a console, a Blu-ray player, and one extra source. The BK- HDMI 2.1 models cover 8K60 / 4K120 territory for PS5, Xbox Series X, and high-end PC gaming.

Important note:

If you want HDMI ARC pass-through specifically, the BK-401ARC is the model to look at.

Scenario 4: You Have 5 Source Devices

Setup:

• 5 HDMI source devices
• 1 display

Recommended product:

• No separate audio output, 1080p or 4K60: UHD-501
• No separate audio output, 8K60 / 4K120: BK-501
• With separate audio output (1080p or 4K60): A dedicated 5x1 Switch with audio extraction is not in the current lineup. Use a 4x1 Switch with audio extraction (UHDS-401A-O, UHD-401, BK-401A, BK-401ARC, or BK-41A) combined with a BK-21 2x1 Switch to add the fifth input.
• With separate audio output (8K60 / 4K120): Use BK-401A, BK-401ARC, or BK-41A together with a BK-21 to add the fifth input.

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Why this works:

For 5 inputs without audio extraction, the UHD-501 and BK-501 are the direct fits. For 5 inputs with audio extraction, chaining a 2x1 Switch into a 4x1 audio-extraction Switch is the cleanest workaround — it adds the fifth input while preserving the audio output.

Typical connection (5 sources, with audio extraction):

Source 1 + Source 2 → BK-21 → input 1 of 4x1 audio-extraction Switch

Source 3, 4, 5 → inputs 2, 3, 4 of the 4x1 audio-extraction Switch → display

Audio-extraction Switch → soundbar / receiver / headphones

Scenario 5: You Have More Than 5 Source Devices

Setup:

• 6 or more HDMI source devices
• 1 display

Recommended product:

A single HDMI Switch with more than 5 inputs is not in the current OREI lineup, but the same setup is easy to build by chaining Switches.

Typical connection (no audio extraction):

5 sources → 5x1 Switch (UHD-501 or BK-501) → input 1 of a second Switch

Remaining sources → 2x1 / 3x1 / 4x1 Switch → display

Typical connection (with audio extraction):

5 sources → 5x1 Switch → input 1 of a 4x1 audio-extraction Switch

Remaining sources → inputs 2, 3, 4 of the 4x1 audio-extraction Switch → display

Audio-extraction Switch → soundbar / receiver / headphones

Important note:

Setups with 6 or more inputs often have edge cases around EDID, HDCP handshakes, and HDMI 2.1 bandwidth that are worth verifying with our support team before purchasing. For your specific setup, please reach out and we can recommend the exact combination of products.

Quick Recommendation Guide

The table below summarizes every supported permutation. Rows are grouped by source count.

Common Questions

What is the difference between a Switch and a Matrix?

A Switch has multiple inputs and one output — it sends one source to one display at a time. A Matrix Switcher has multiple inputs and multiple outputs — it can send any source to any display, independently and at the same time. If you only have one display, a Switch is what you want.

What is the difference between a Switch and a Splitter?

A Splitter has one input and multiple outputs — it sends one source to multiple displays at the same time. A Switch is the opposite — multiple sources, one display.

Do I need a powered Switch or a passive one?

For 2 inputs at 1080p or 4K60, a passive (USB-powered or no power) Switch is often fine. For 8K60 / 4K120, for 3 or more inputs, and for any Switch with audio extraction, an externally powered Switch is more reliable, and the OREI lineup at those tiers ships with a power adapter.

Will an HDMI Switch downgrade my video quality?

No, as long as the Switch supports the resolution and refresh rate you are using. A 1080p Switch will limit a 4K source to 1080p; a 4K60 Switch will limit a 4K120 source to 4K60. Pick a Switch that matches your highest source resolution and refresh rate.

Will an HDMI Switch add input lag for gaming?

OREI Switches are designed for low latency and do not add meaningful input lag for gaming under normal conditions. For competitive gaming at 4K 120Hz with VRR and ALLM, choose one of the HDMI 2.1 models (BK-401, BK-401A, BK-401ARC, BK-41A, or BK-501).

Can I use my TV remote with the Switch?

Many OREI Switches support HDMI CEC pass-through, which can let your TV remote control basic Switch operations. The Switch also ships with its own IR remote, and most models have a manual button on the unit itself.

Do I need separate audio output if my TV has HDMI ARC?

Usually no. If your TV has ARC / eARC and your soundbar or receiver supports ARC / eARC, the TV can handle audio routing on its own — no audio-extraction Switch needed. You only need a Switch with separate audio output if you want to bypass the TV for audio (older audio gear with Optical, Coaxial, RCA, or 3.5mm, or a wired headphone tap).

What HDMI cables should I use?

• 1080p: High Speed HDMI cables work fine.
• 4K60: Premium High Speed HDMI cables.
• 8K60 / 4K120: Ultra High Speed HDMI cables, certified for HDMI 2.1.

Use the same cable rating for every link in the chain — source-to-Switch and Switch-to-display. The weakest cable sets the ceiling.

Still Not Sure Which Switch You Need?

If you are not sure which product is right for your setup, please provide the following information:

• The number of HDMI source devices you want to connect
• The make and model of those sources (so we can confirm their HDMI version)
• Your display’s make, model, and supported resolution / refresh rate
• Whether you need a separate audio output, and if so, what audio device you are routing to
• Whether you have one display or multiple displays

With this information, we can recommend the exact OREI Switch (or combination of products) for your setup.